Took a while and was like working on the tiniest japanese car you ever worked on, but I managed it. I removed the upper inner bolts on both springs.
Rubber support rear spring boosters plus#
I almost gave up and said screw it, since the shear springs on the rig were still within specs, and probably have at least 5 more years in them.but no.I'm a member here, and we can do anything! Plus I blew 600 bucks on the new springs, which I doubt are refundable.lol! I could only get my left hand in the access area on the driver's side. The passenger side should be easier since I'm right handed. I was lucky enough not to drop the tools. Even the couple of nuts I dropped didn't fall out the bottom. Its a good thing I have long fingers! And don't drop your wrench in the adjustable s deep enough to eat your tools, and does NOT open up at the bottom.the axle goes right through it, so its not hollow all the way through like one would thing. Which brings me to the next thing that made this so difficult.clearance! I have big hands and wrists, and can barely get my hand through the opening.just one opening mind you.which is the only access to the upper inner bolts. Instead, the outer upper part of the spring slips into a heavy duty thick steel sleeve welded to the frame.you can see it, but you can't reach it for anything. Fortunately the original installation was apparently modified by HRC, or by Mor-Ryde for HRC, because the outer upper bolts, which you simply couldn't reach, are missing.
There are all kinds of supports and thick sheetmetal walls that are part of the body of the rig that ALMOST completely encapsulate the upper inner bolts. While it looks pretty straightforward in the instructions and diagrams, they show just the suspension components, not how boxed in it is by Holiday Rambler. Now, to the nitty gritty that made it so hard. So I could only do one side at a time safely, supporting the one side on 2 jackstands strategically placed to minimize the load on the shear springs.
But I'm on unlevel soft campground dirt, and I don't have 4 foot tall jackstands. First of all, it might be easier if you are able to follow the instructions to the letter, which begins with a hard level surface, jacking up the whole back of the RV, and being able to remove all the wheels with the suspension hanging unsupported and the actual frame of the RV on the jackstands. So here is the deal on replacing these things. Today its the passenger side, once it warms up a bit. It was dark by the time I put on the last allen bolt that holds on the wheel covers.
Rubber support rear spring boosters install#
These small and simple to install kits prove to be one of the most affective products in redistributing weight to rear tires, avoiding front end damage and keeping the ride completely unaffected when the plow is not attached.God gods! This is probably the most challenging mechanical project I even underwent, but one side is done! I decided to tackle the drivers side first and it took me all day. With the Timbren kit in place, the vehicle will remain level by the unit absorbing the additional weight and filling the void between the frame and radius arm. Then, the stem of the bolt is placed through and existing hole typically above the radius arm on the frame and held tight with a small nut. The unit first assembles with the appropriate mounting brackets and rubber cushion that will be held together with a single bolt. The timbren load booster is a solution that will correct these problems. When a plow is placed on the front end of the truck, the weight will stress and sag the front which can cause front end damage, uneven weight distribution and less power transfer from the rear tires. Again, this is generic and installation procedure, parts and schematics may vary depending on applications. Above is a generic video of the installation and performance of a Timbren spring on the front of a vehicle equipped with a snow plow.
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